Ask three agents what "full coverage" is and you'll get three answers that mostly overlap. That's because it isn't a policy you can buy. It's shorthand for a bundle: the liability coverage your state requires, plus collision and comprehensive to protect your own car, plus whatever else the person using the phrase assumes you'd want. A lender means one thing by it, a rate table means another, and the declarations page in your glovebox is the only version that counts.
This post pins the phrase down, says what's usually inside it and what usually isn't, and puts a number on it: the step from liability-only to full coverage in every state we cover, from our own guides.
What's usually in it
- Liability for injuries and property damage you cause to others, at your state's minimum or higher. The required part.
- Collision, which pays to repair or replace your car after a crash with a vehicle or object, whoever was at fault, minus your deductible.
- Comprehensive, which pays for damage from things that aren't crashes: hail, flood, theft, vandalism, fire, falling objects, a deer. Also minus a deductible.
That three-part bundle is what rate comparisons mean by "full coverage," including the figures below. Our comprehensive vs. collision explainer covers where the line between the last two sits.
What's usually not in it
- Uninsured and underinsured motorist coverage, which pays when the driver who hit you has no insurance or not enough. Some states build it in; most make you choose it, and a few make you reject it in writing. It matters most in states with a lot of uninsured drivers, and it's often left out of a "full coverage" quote.
- Medical payments or PIP, which pay your own injuries regardless of fault. Required in some states, optional in most.
- Gap coverage, which pays the difference between what you owe on a loan and what the car is worth if it's totaled. Never included; a separate purchase, usually at the dealer or through the lender.
- Rental reimbursement and roadside assistance. Add-ons.
- Higher liability limits. A "full coverage" quote often carries the state minimum liability limits, which can be far too low for a serious crash. The rate tables below use 50/100/50 limits, more than most state minimums but still the floor of what's sensible.
The honest definition of full coverage, then, is "liability plus collision plus comprehensive, and ask about the rest." The rest is where most of the real gaps live.
What the step costs, by state
Public rate data rarely prices collision and comprehensive on their own; it reports liability-only and full coverage as two averages. The difference is the step, and it varies a lot more by state than people expect. From our guides, using Insurify data for clean-record drivers with $1,000 deductibles, sorted from the smallest step to the largest:
| State | Liability only (mo.) | Full coverage (mo.) | The step |
|---|---|---|---|
| Massachusetts | $103 | $138 | $35 |
| North Carolina | $69 | $114 | $45 |
| Ohio | $64 | $117 | $53 |
| Connecticut | $162 | $223 | $61 |
| Indiana | $65 | $129 | $64 |
| New Mexico | $65 | $135 | $70 |
| Pennsylvania | $90 | $161 | $71 |
| Tennessee | $60 | $132 | $72 |
| Arizona | $90 | $163 | $73 |
| Kentucky | $121 | $194 | $73 |
| West Virginia | $82 | $155 | $73 |
| New Jersey | $182 | $256 | $74 |
| Alabama | $66 | $142 | $76 |
| New York | $145 | $221 | $76 |
| Arkansas | $73 | $150 | $77 |
| Illinois | $83 | $162 | $79 |
| Oklahoma | $83 | $169 | $86 |
| Missouri | $92 | $180 | $88 |
| Washington | $95 | $183 | $88 |
| Virginia | $117 | $207 | $90 |
| Texas | $110 | $204 | $94 |
| Florida | $142 | $237 | $95 |
| South Carolina | $160 | $255 | $95 |
| Nevada | $163 | $259 | $96 |
| Michigan | $130 | $228 | $98 |
| Georgia | $156 | $259 | $103 |
| Louisiana | $106 | $209 | $103 |
| California | $97 | $202 | $105 |
| Maryland | $192 | $303 | $111 |
| Colorado | $96 | $217 | $121 |
Each guide's footer has its own data date; they run from August to September 2026. Three things stand out.
- The step runs from $35 to $121 a month, and the median is $79. In the typical state, full coverage costs about 80% more than liability-only; in Massachusetts it's a third more, in Colorado more than double.
- The step tracks weather and car values, not crash rates. Colorado's hail, Nevada's and Georgia's repair costs, Oklahoma's and Louisiana's storms all push the step up; a low liability rate is no guarantee of a low step. Massachusetts sits at the bottom because its liability-only policy is unusually expensive to begin with (the state's required minimum already includes PIP and uninsured motorist coverage), not because its full coverage is cheap.
- The cheapest full coverage isn't always where the cheapest liability is. North Carolina, Ohio, Indiana, Tennessee and New Mexico have the lowest full-coverage averages we track, all under $140 a month, with Massachusetts, Alabama and Arkansas next.
The carrier picture changes the number again. In most of the states above, the cheapest full-coverage carrier open to everyone lands well under the state average: State Farm at $71 in Arkansas, $85 in Oklahoma and $87 in Texas; National General at $91 in Alabama; Auto-Owners at $128 in South Carolina. Each guide's carrier table has the full list.
When full coverage is the right call
- The car is financed or leased. You don't get a vote; the lender requires both.
- You couldn't replace the car from savings. The step is the price of not having to.
- You live where the weather is the risk. Hail, floods, hurricanes, wildfire: comprehensive is the only coverage that pays, and it's the cheaper half of the step.
- The car is worth meaningfully more than a year's step plus the deductible. On a $20,000 car, an $80 step is cheap. On a $3,000 car it probably isn't.
When to drop it, and what to drop
The usual advice is to drop both when the car is old. The better advice is to drop them one at a time. Collision is the expensive half and the one tied to the car's value: when a year of collision premium plus the deductible gets close to what the car would fetch, it's done its job. Comprehensive is the cheaper half and covers the events that have nothing to do with how old the car is; many drivers who go liability-only keep it on its own, and most carriers allow that. Our state minimum coverage guide covers what you're left with when both are gone.
What to do with this
- Read your declarations page and translate it. Find the liability limits, confirm collision and comprehensive are listed, and check what the deductibles are. "Full coverage" on the renewal notice is the agent's word for whatever is on that page.
- Price the step for your car, not the state. The averages above are the state; the quote is you. Compare liability-only against full coverage for your car and ZIP code and look at the difference, not the totals.
- Ask about the four things that aren't in it. Uninsured motorist, medical payments, higher liability limits, gap if there's a loan. Our rate-factors guide explains how each line is priced.
- Re-run it at renewal. Cars lose value and the step drifts. Check what full coverage costs today against last year's number before the policy renews itself.
State averages per our state guides, which use Insurify rate data for drivers with clean records; full coverage reflects 50/100/50 liability limits with $1,000 collision and comprehensive deductibles; data dates vary by state (August–September 2026) and each guide's footer states its own; the Arkansas and Oklahoma figures are current as of September 30, 2026. The step is our arithmetic on those two averages. Cheapest full-coverage carriers per the same guides' carrier tables. Coverage definitions per the Insurance Information Institute and the National Association of Insurance Commissioners, as cited in our comprehensive-vs-collision post. Which coverages a state requires or builds in varies; the Massachusetts note reflects that state's required minimum policy as described in our Massachusetts guide. This is general information; your declarations page and your insurer govern.